Its something I knew from reading reviews and as I wasn't powering off it hasn't been any problem for me to place a piece of packing foam on the printer next to the bed to catch it anyway in case it fell (I'm designing an addon I can print to catch it too if I forget the foam).
#Cetus3d extended reviews mods#
The Cetus is compact but solid, the plate is unheated but printing with raft everything I've done so far is perfect and easy to remove and easy to stick to its bed.Ĭalibration is easy via software instead of tiny hard to reach screws, there are no essential mods you need to do first it will work fine out of the box.That said its X arm doesnt lock to the vertical Z rail when power is off and being heavy can drop easily landing on the print bed with the end of the nozzle. The Cetus on default settings has been printing around the clock all weekend just fine with my old cocoon filament (every Cetus owner says the same, its very tolerant of any brand of PLA filaments) the cocoon needed constant fine tuning to get its own filament printing and I never got it to print any other brand successfully. For someone with only one working arm this is very easy. The Cetus just bloody well works and maintaining will be easy and minimal, changing nozzles or removing to unclog (if it does) is dead easy and it comes with three nozzles sizes so theres no dodgy feeder to get jammed, or heat blocks and fans to remove to service like the Cocoon Create. I also have a delta printer that came doa and never printed and the first Aldi printer which was temperamental to use and very difficult to maintain (high maintenance needed). Its a very well engineered product with well machined metal rails. I have better results with lower flow rates (dia 0.4 or 1900%), but more testing needs to be done.Just bought a Cetus 3d Extended Mk II 3D printer (US$399) arived in four days, goes together just fine. Filament diameters of around 0.38 translate to the 2200% cmeyer posted (flow rate factors in quadratic, so use fine steps when adjusting it). Flow rate percentage adjustments mess up the ‘layer view’ in Cura (from years of experience with an Ultimaker 2, I find this one of the most helpful features in Cura). Keep in mind that you may have to find a physical solution for levelling the build bed when using Cura.ĭ) With the current version of Cura (v3.3.1) it is better to adjust the flow rate of molten filament via the filament diameter, than the flow rate percentage. The nozzle is too far away from the bed, if the individual lines can be easily separated and do not stick together.)Ĭ) Up Studio allows for an 9-point calibration routine for the z-axis. The nozzle is too close to the bed, if the brim thickness (z-direction) gets to thin and translucent. If you use a brim around a test-model in Cura, the correct height is achieved, if the individual lines that make up the brim squash together nicely.
(I think a painfully precise calibration is overkill.
#Cetus3d extended reviews code#
I did compile my ‘own version’ from the start code by chrisevich.
Perhaps the info below will help someone in the future:Ī) I used the start and end code from chrisevich ( #11) which worked nicely for me.ī) the z-axis calibration code posted by cmeyer never worked for me. I just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this thread - it helped me tremendously when setting up my Cetus3D MkII with Cura. G1 X50 E360 F300 extrude a 5cm purge line
G1 X2 Y178 F5000 move to back right corner M206 X-180 offset X axis so the coordinates are 0.180, normally they are -180.0 Do the paper test and use a gcode file something like this:p.p1 the nozzle offset may be different than in Cetus Studio. make sure your nozzle offset is correct in the starting g-code
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